Course Reviews
Royal Ashdown
Forest
is a real treat, but don't
be fooled,
it's a real test
By John Vinicombe,
Staff Writer
SUSSEX, England -- A golf course of championship quality and possessing holes to chill the blood, yet without a single bunker, is a rarity. But Royal Ashdown Forest in East Sussex and only 35 miles from London can claim to be unique.
While nearby Piltdown, scene of the notorious Piltdown Man hoax of the early 20th century does not have a single sand trap, it is not the fearsome test posed by Royal Ashdown. Both are laid out on common land and, in the case of Royal Ashdown, the club is bound by the rules and regulations of the Conservators of the Forest.
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This body does not permit any artificial hazard to be constructed. But there is no need as streams, pits and sandy roads penalise bad shots as heavily as any bunkers. Yet Royal Ashdown merits a place among the top 40 in the British Isles.
Many famous golfers have pitted their skills against the heather and gorse and been found wanting. There is water at no fewer than eight holes and, if there is a weakness, it lies in the shortness of several par-4s and the length from the back tees, which is 6,463 yards and short by 21st century standards.
For this reason, but not entirely so, no major national championship has been played there, although in 2004 it is the venue for one round in the Open qualifying. In July the eight or nine lowest scores from a field of 128 will go forward.
Yet there has been an English title contested at Forest Row. That was in the 1930s on the separate ladies' course.
During WW2 much of those 18 holes was left to run to wilderness and the remnants turned into nine holes. Then, in the 1960s, a revival brought the full 18 into play again and today it is packaged as the West Course as distinct from the Old.
The latter was founded in 1888 when a clergyman hit the first ball on Christmas Eve. The Rev. AT Scott could never have envisaged what his inaugural shot had set in motion. When the clubhouse was built in 1893 the club was known as the Ashdown Forest and Tunbridge Wells GC.
In May that year Queen Victoria reviewed her troops under the command of the Duke of Cambridge in the forest. In full regalia of cocked hat with plumes, tight blue coat and sword, the Field Marshal drove a ball from the first tee.
Possibly he did not carry the stream and the queen did not see the stroke, but certainly the outcome was that the club then became "Royal".
The army were in the forest for manoeuvres and the officers accorded temporary membership.
General Lord William Seymour was elected Field Marshal of the club. The title appears to have
originated at Royal Blackheath early in the 19th century to distinguish an officer of the club who
today would be called the president, his function being to, "marshal the field" when stroke play
was first introduced.
Some idea of the ceremonial on that occasion at newly christened Royal Ashdown may be gleaned from General Seymour being handed a club from John Rowe, the professional, who had it made specially for him. Apparently the general sent his shot 60 yards - quite good for his first attempt.
Shortly afterwards, the club designed a crest consisting of the obligatory crossed golf clubs surmounted by a Tudor crown and below the motto, "Per Tot Discrimina Rerum." The translation being, "Through so many different types of difficulty." It is particularly apt.
In that founding year of 1888, the first club in the United States, the St Andrews club in New York, was opened, but not by a general in full fig. Interestingly, before 1860 only two clubs appear to have been established in England: Royal Blackheath and Old Manchester, founded in 1608 and 1818 respectively, although there is no written evidence to prove either claim accurate.
However, a life of 116 years places Royal Ashdown among the very early clubs in England and everything about the course and clubhouse breathes tradition.
Every hole has a secret that must be unravelled with a cunning eye and firm hand. A perfectly level lie is a rarity over the undulating heathland with long carries from all tees. It is emphatically not a course for beginners.
Bernard Darwin, the founding father of golfing journalism in Britain, once likened the lumps and bumps short and left of the 12th green to a cemetery for old ladies' pet dogs, adding it was only at the end of a round that, "we realise with a pleasurable shock that there is not a single hideous rampart on the course, or so much as a pot bunker."
Of all the fine holes in this supremely natural setting quite the most celebrated is the endowed sixth or "Island". Only 128 yards, it is surrounded on three sides by two streams. A less-than-perfect tee shot is in great danger of rolling off the shaven shoulders of the long narrow double-terraced green and into the clear gurgling water - or hang suspended on a tufty bank.
The hole was endowed many years ago with £5, with compound interest in perpetuity for anyone holing in one in a competition. Only rarely has the money been won. The benefaction dates back to 1902 when a frequent visitor to the club, Lionel Redpath, who was so enchanted by the hole, that he arranged for it to to be endowed with the sum of £5, interest on the same to accumulate at the rate of 5 per cent per annum and this interest to be paid to the member holing his tee shot at the easter, whitsun or autumn meetings.
This feat was not achieved until 1947 at the spring meeting when David Richardson received £35 for his skill. A few weeks later, at the whitsun meeting, Charles Frazer, a former captain, also holed in one but his reward was only a few coppers.
Now, to make matters more equitable, the club pays any member £50, plus the freedom of the club for a day, if they succeed during any medal competition.
The long holes are first-class with a variety of punchbowl greens while the golfer favouring a low trajectory will find trouble from the tee as the carries over heather and streams are considerable.
Royal Ashdown is not a big club in terms of membership, but it is exclusive. It is doubtful if
more than 500 in all categories belong and there is a long waiting list. The Victorian clubhouse
could never be described as beautiful, but it is functional and comfortable and full of memorabilia
including an ancient wooden contraption once used for blackballing undesirable applicants for
membership.
The Big Room with its magnificent views over the forest and the 1st and 18th holes, is a feature and the men's bar - a small room with benches round the walls - is a Dickensian snug of Pickwickian charrm.
Old photographs testify to illustrious names either brought up at Royal Ashdown or who played the course and couldn't stay away. It was the home of several English greats including Alf Padgham, the 1936 Open champion, and Ryder Cup stalwart Abe Mitchell. Both were born in humble cottages on the forest.
Bobby Locke, the South African, played there before WW2 as an amateur before going on to win the Open four times.
Overseas visitors are very welcome at Royal Ashdown and a telephone call to Douglas Neave, the secretary, before arriving will ensure a warm greeting -- although he will advise that handicaps over 18 might not enjoy the course and would probably he happier on the New.
Where to stay
Ashdown Park Hotel & Country Club, Wych Cross, Nr Forest Row, East Sussex RH18 5JR
Tel: (0044) 1342 824988
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Set in 186 acres of beautifully landscaped Sussex countryside the hotel -- based around an old country mansion house -- possesses its own acclaimed restaurant.
The Chequers Inn Hotel, The Square, Forest Row, RH18 5ES Tel: (0044) 1342 823333
A delightful 15th century Posting Inn built approximately 1452.
The Roebuck, Wych Cross, Forest Row, RH18 5JL Tel: (0044) 1342 823811
This charming 17th century country house hotel includes the Antlers restaurant with its low oak beams and leaded windows.
Dining Out
Try any of the hotels mentioned above.
The Verdict
History at your fingertips - it's hard not to appreciate the nostalgia. Far removed from the sanitised parkland golf resorts, but a real treat nonetheless.
Not a place for the beginner, however.
Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management. The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. All contact information, directions and prices should be confirmed directly with the golf course or resort before making reservations and/or travel plans.
